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RetNav6.5

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Posts: 21
Reply with quote  #1 
I spent a lot of time trying to find a fix for the 'D'ing of the case necks on my 6.5 Grendel. I have read where all you need to do is use the soft side of a velcro strip on the deflector and that will take care of it. In my mind this is just a bandaid for the problem and not a fix. I've been on a couple 5.56 sites and they say it is just the nature of the beast and you have to live with it. I don't really believe that.

This group has provided me fixes for other case related problems and I am in hopes someone out there can point me to a fix for this problem as well. Because I reload I would like to keep the abuse on my brass to a minimum. If I have to live with the bandaid that is okay, but I would really like to find a fix for this.

I have a Satern/Brownells 24" barrel with a rifle length gas system. I am also using a rifle buffer/spring system. I also have an adjustable gas block adjusted to eject around 4 o'clock.
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Charlie Noak

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Reply with quote  #2 
Nature of the beast. The M-16 (and thus the AR-15) was designed with reliability, not reloading, in mind. If I get five reloads on AR-15 brass, I am ecstatic. Since the M-16 design has very little camming power to put cartridges into the chamber, I tend to small base resize, and set the shoulder back 0.003" back when resizing. Case neck dings are just another problem with the design. The only real, non-band-aid fix is to get a thick walled accuracy type upper without the deflector.

In your situation, I would go with some padding on the deflector. I have used the velcro pile, leather, and Spenco "Second Skin" as padding materials. They all worked.

Good luck.
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RetNav6.5

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Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks for the reply. I had a feeling this is what I would end up doing, but felt it was worth a check. Padding the deflector sounds like what I will live with. In the future if I get the opportunity to build another one I will look into the thick walled upper. Prefer to put my money into shooting right now. That's where the fun is.  [biggrin]
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Charlie Noak

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Reply with quote  #4 
Your welcome. Keep shooting, and keep having fun. For a thick walled receiver, check out ARX.com
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steve satern

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Reply with quote  #5 
Try using Velcro, either the hook or loop side that has adhesive backing. The guys shooting NRA/CMP service rifle do this to prevent the ding in the neck
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RetNav6.5

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Reply with quote  #6 
That is nice to know Steve. The 223 builds I have done worked flawlessly. I just knew I had goofed up something. This is the last of the little issues I have had with my Grendel.
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RetNav6.5

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Reply with quote  #7 
I made a trip out to the range yesterday with a piece of velcro on the deflector. A few of the cases, approx 10%, still had a ding on the neck, but you had to look read close in order to see it. Most definitely better than what I had been seeing. I doubt the ding will work the brass any more than what happens in the resizing die. I am satisfied with the results and will not devote any further time dealing with it.

Thanks for the info Steve.
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Joe6.8

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Posts: 19
Reply with quote  #8 
My 20" dings about 75% of the cases no matter where the gas block is set and beats the deflector to death. With the block set for full function it ejects to 4 o'clock. My 18" Type 1 doesn't ding any with almost zero deflector contact and ejects everything at 3 o'clock. The only difference is that I removed the o ring from the Type 1 bolt extractor (because it was too hard and causing severe rim damage) and the 20" Type 2 still retains the o ring "enhancer". I see this thread is old but if you haven't tried removing the extractor spring o ring, you might try it. The o ring really doesn't do much for you anyway except often cause rim damage and delay ejection. Delayed ejection will almost always cause deflector contact with a hot caliber like Grendel in conjuction with the associated increased bolt speed.
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